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Year of the Peach

8/19/2015

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I have been neglecting my blog.  When I am happy and busy it is so difficult for me to write.  And I have also been feeling timid and protective of personal matters lately.  It’s like when you find a special, shiny object as a child and want to keep it a secret from the world.
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Life on the farm is becoming increasingly hectic as August wears on.  The markets are in full swing, the produce is at its peak and various fairs, summer events, special orders and deliveries are putting more and more pressure on Mark and his family.  And amidst all of this, my farmer and I celebrated our first year anniversary last week!
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A year ago, Mark asked me to the fair and offered to give me a brief tour of the farm beforehand.  Little did I know then that the farm just down the road would someday be my home.  I vividly remember turning onto the gravel drive as Mark sat against one of the sheds wearing a clean white shirt, waiting for me to arrive.   I knew he was nervous, but as he began showing me the farm equipment, explaining its uses, answering questions, asking questions, his tension eased and I could tell he was happy.  Genuinely happy for my company.  After the tour, we took an unpaved back country road to the fair.  We talked and walked and laughed, almost barfed after a few rides (ok, that was just me) and started to fall in love.  My curiosity didn’t phase him and his direct, honest nature drew me in.  What a very full year it has been since that evening.  The other day, Mark told me that there are times when he and his family stop for a moment, look at each other during the heat of the day and wonder how on earth they were able to accomplish all that they did that season.  

When I think back on our single year, I feel the same way.  
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Working the farmers markets together has proven to be a considerably more meaningful experience than I could have ever imagined.  Being side by side during the hottest of days, during downpours, as we take on the chaos of a crowd and a line a dozen deep and even during markets where turnout is low and it suddenly feels like you have twice the product that you actually do…those times have solidified our trust.  For me, all of that time spent together – even the harder days – have been encouraging, because through it all, I have a man who loves me. 
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A habit I’ve developed during the summer market season is this: Mark and I return to the farm in the evening after market.  After we unload anything necessary from the truck, I head into the house to wash my hands and face while Mark makes sure the dog has fresh water and the cats are fed.  I make a beeline to the refrigerator and open up the jar of peaches that are quietly calling my name.  I grab a fork and spear a juicy chunk, let it drip a moment and then lock lips with it.  The cold sweetness of that peach instantly cools my entire body.  And I have another (and usually another) as I stop for a moment to look out the kitchen window, watching the sun slowly lay its head down to sleep.  Cold and sweet at the end of a hot, full day.  This recipe is an ode to that moment.
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Roasted Peach Sorbet
Makes about 1 quart
Adapted from Serious Eats

Ingredients

3 pounds ripe peaches
juice of 1 lime
1 cup sugar
¼ tsp salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 350 F.  Cut the peaches in half, leaving the skins on and the pits intact.  Place them cut side down onto a clean baking sheet.  Roast the peaches on the center rack of the oven for 30 minutes.   Remove them and let cool.


When the peaches are cool enough to handle, the skins should slide off easily.  Discard the skins and pits and place all of the peach flesh into a blender.  Add the fresh lime juice and sugar, then process to a fine puree.  Be sure to add the citrus juice before you puree it, otherwise the peaches may oxidize (turn brown).  Strain the mixture if necessary and add salt to taste.  Let the puree chill for at least a couple of hours, preferably overnight.

If you are using an automatic ice cream machine, process the sorbet according to the manufacturer’s instructions and then chill it in the freezer for a couple of hours until firm.  If you are using an old fashioned hand-crank machine, I have some tips:

Hand Crank Ice Cream Maker Tips
1.    The colder the better.  Make sure your sorbet or ice cream base is super cold and it also helps if you put the actual canister that the base will go into in the freezer for a while before you make the sorbet.  An hour should do it.

2.    Even distribution.  When you are ready to add the ice to the bucket, do it in layers.  Add some ice to the bottom of the bucket, then about a tablespoon or so of kosher or rock salt.  Bigger salt is better.  Add another layer of ice, and some more salt.  See the pattern here?  I did three layers like this.  That way, your ice melts evenly, ensuring the temperature surrounding your ice cream or sorbet is pretty much the same everywhere.

3.    Enlist a friend!  Or in my case, a farmer!  If you have someone to trade off churning duty, it’s a lot more fun and you can eat ice cream sooner.
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    All photographs and content in this blog are produced by Samantha Ardry of Ardry Farms.

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